Laurent announced that she would completely distance herself from the traditional calendar.
It was the first major European brand to do so (and still is one of them). In fact, Saint Laurent was absent from the Paris Fashion Week schedule at the end of September. Until Tuesday, when it was unveiled in the middle of the desert by a film shot by Nathalie Kongwellham - until Tuesday, Anthony Vacrillo held his Spring 2021 collection. Models with the YSL logo hid across a sandbag, apparently out of nowhere.
If Fall 2020 was about the sexiest secretaries in latex and lace, Summer 2021 takes a 180-degree turn in the land of tranquility and ease - at least, the St. Laurent version of those things. Even Vic Carrelo is not immune to the appeals of our zoom-dominated era of dressing up our social distance.
But I don't want anything fast or heavy. The desert, for me, this longing is a sign of stability, open space, a slow rhythm. The clothes are softer, the collecting spirit is softer, retreating. Is."
What does this mean in St. Laurent's generally short-lived, sequined world? Well, bike shorts, for one - barely an innovation of the wheel, but still paired with a sexy flared jacket or slippery blouse. Less practical lace and satin warm pants are paired with lightweight buttons and button-down, but since then, St. Laurent customers have never let anything practical get in the way. (Also, who cares now except your top half?)
There are still touches of top jewelry that Vacrelo loves so much, whether it's the sequins on a bodysuit or a flowing chiffon blouse with a flow of feathers. The color scheme was largely black and white, with some pops in the pattern. It is better to show the ornaments of the statue, which was chosen by Claude Lalan. And while I usually object to models carrying literally piles of sand on the heels - I know flats aren't really Vacrillo's thing, but couldn't we make some sandals for the occasion? - There's something interesting about the obscure square thumb, the back-to-back hats from the '90s.
Of course, it is good that you will be able to see the details up close in the form of video, it also makes the thinness of the models very clear. Vic Carlo is one of the worst criminals in fashion when there is no complete lack of physical diversity on the runway, and it is gratifying to see that its oral design also brings to life the corpses with the most curves.
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